🌸 Crochet Runner Table – Square Flower Motif Tutorial

 Creating a beautiful crochet table runner composed of square flower motifs is a delightful project that adds a touch of handmade elegance to your home decor. This tutorial will guide you through making individual floral squares and then joining them together to form a charming runner.

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Crochet Runner Table: Square Flower Motif Tutorial

Project Overview: This pattern will teach you how to crochet a distinctive "square flower" motif, featuring a textured center, layered petals, and a green "leaf" square base. You'll then learn how to join these motifs seamlessly to create a custom-length table runner.

Skill Level: Intermediate (Requires familiarity with basic stitches, working in the round, creating specific shapes, managing multiple colors, and joining motifs).

Finished Motif Size (Approximate):

• Using Worsted Weight yarn and H/5.0mm hook: Approximately 5x5 inches (12.5x12.5 cm) per square.

Finished Runner Size (Adjustable):

• For a runner using 6 motifs: Approx. 5 inches wide x 30 inches long (12.5 cm x 76 cm), excluding any border. This can be easily adjusted by making more or fewer motifs.

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Materials You'll Need:

• Yarn:
  • Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton Yarn: Cotton is highly recommended for table runners as it's durable, absorbent, and easy to wash.
    • Color A (Flower Center): Approx. 10-15 yards per motif (e.g., Dark Brown, Black, Gold).
    • Color B (Inner Petals): Approx. 15-20 yards per motif (e.g., Bright Yellow).
    • Color C (Outer Petals): Approx. 20-25 yards per motif (e.g., Sunny Yellow, Orange).
    • Color D (Green Base/Leaves): Approx. 25-30 yards per motif (e.g., Leaf Green).
    • Color E (Joining/Border): Approx. 50-100 yards total (e.g., Cream, White, or one of your motif colors).
• Crochet Hook:
  • Size H/5.0mm (or the hook size that gives you a dense, firm fabric. A tighter gauge helps the motifs hold their shape).
• Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): For weaving in ends and final assembly.
• Scissors
• Stitch Markers (Optional but Recommended): For marking beginning of rounds or corners.

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Gauge (Crucial for Consistent Motif Size!):

With Color D and H/5.0mm hook, after completing the Green Base/Leaves section (up to Round 3 of Part 1.3):

• Motif should measure approximately 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) across.

Adjust your hook size as needed to achieve this gauge. Consistent motif size is vital for neat joining.

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Abbreviations Used:

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet (triple crochet)
• st(s): stitch(es)
• inc: increase (work 2 stitches into the same stitch)
• sk: skip
• sp: space
• MR: magic ring (or magic circle)
• FO: fasten off
• Cluster (Cl): (Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops) 3 times in the same stitch/space, yarn over, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

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Understanding Construction:

This table runner is constructed by:

1. Crocheting multiple individual "Square Flower" motifs. You will decide how many you need based on your desired runner length (e.g., for a 30-inch runner with 5-inch squares, you'd need 6 motifs).
2. Joining these motifs together. We'll use a "Join-As-You-Go" (JAYG) method for a seamless look, or you can join them later with a whip stitch or sc seam. JAYG is often preferred for runners.
3. Adding an optional border around the entire assembled runner for a finished look.

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Part 1: The Square Flower Motif (Make as many as needed)

Each motif will be worked in sections, changing colors as we go. Weave in ends as you complete each color section to keep your work tidy.

1.1. Flower Center (Color A - Dark Brown/Black)

1. With Color A and H/5.0mm hook, make a Magic Ring (MR).

   • If you prefer not to use MR: Ch 2, then work stitches into the 2nd ch from hook.

2. Round 1: Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st). Work 8 sc into the MR. Pull tail to close MR tightly. (8 sc).

   • Sl st to the first sc to join.

3. Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. (16 sc).

   • Sl st to the first sc to join.
   • FO Color A.

1.2. Inner Petals (Color B - Bright Yellow)

1. Join Color B with a sl st into any stitch of Round 2 of the center.
2. Round 3: Ch 2, work 2 dc into the same st. Ch 2, sl st into the same st. (This forms one petal).
   • Sl st into the next st. (This moves you to the base of the next petal).
   • Repeat from * to * around. You will create 16 petals.
   • After the last petal, sl st to the initial join.
   • FO Color B.

1.3. Outer Petals & Squaring (Color C - Deeper Yellow/Orange)

1. Join Color C with a sl st into any sl st between petals from Round 3 (the sl st used to move to the next petal base). This will position your new petals behind the inner ones.
2. Round 4: Ch 3, work 3 tr into the same sl st. Ch 3, sl st into the same sl st. (This forms one larger petal).
   • Sl st into the next sl st between petals.
   • Repeat from * to * around. You will create 16 larger petals.
   • After the last petal, sl st to the initial join.
   • FO Color C.

1.4. Green Base/Squaring the Flower (Color D - Leaf Green)

This section converts the circular flower into a square.

1. Join Color D with a sl st into the back of any sl st between petals from Round 4 (the sl st between two outer petals). This will hide the green layer behind the yellow petals.
2. Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc). Work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the same sl st (this forms your first corner). Sk 3 outer petals, work 3 dc into the sl st between the next two petals. Sk 3 outer petals, work 3 dc into the sl st between the next two petals. Repeat from * to * around. You will create 4 corners and 8 sides.
   • Sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join. (Total: 4 corners (ch 2 sps) and 12 dc clusters of 3 dc).
   • FO Color D.

1.5. Final Border (Color E - Joining/Border Color)

This round cleans up the edges of the square and is used for joining.

1. Join Color E with a sl st into any ch-2 corner space from Round 5.
2. Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc). Work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the same ch-2 sp (this forms your new corner). Work 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc (first 3-dc cluster). Work 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc (second 3-dc cluster). Work 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc (third 3-dc cluster). Repeat from * to * around.
   • Sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join. (Total: 4 corners (ch 2 sps) and 36 dc).
   • FO Color E, leaving a tail for weaving if joining later, or proceed to Join-As-You-Go.

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Part 2: Joining the Motifs (Choose one method)

You need to make all your motifs (e.g., 6 for a 30-inch runner) before joining, except for the first one if using JAYG.

Method A: Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) - Recommended for a seamless look

• Make your first motif completely (up to the end of Part 1.5). FO and weave in ends.
• For your second motif, work all rounds up to and including Round 5 (Green Base/Squaring). Do not FO.
• Now, for Round 6 (Final Border) of your second motif, you will join it to the first completed motif.
  • Join Color E into a corner ch-2 sp of the second motif. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc). Work (2 dc, ch 1) into the same ch-2 sp.
  • Pick up your first completed motif. Sl st into a corner ch-2 sp of the first motif. Ch 1.
  • Work (3 dc, ch 1) into the same ch-2 sp of your second motif. (This completes the corner of your second motif and joins it to the first).
  • Now, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc on the second motif. Sl st into the corresponding dc on the first motif (aligning the stitches).
  • Work 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc on the second motif. Sl st into the corresponding dc on the first motif.
  • Work 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc on the second motif. Sl st into the corresponding dc on the first motif.
  • When you reach the next corner of the second motif: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc). Work (2 dc, ch 1) into the ch-2 sp. Sl st into the corresponding corner ch-2 sp of the first motif. Ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 1) into the same ch-2 sp of your second motif.
  • Continue working the remaining 3 sides of your second motif as normal (3 dc in each 3-dc cluster, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in corners) until you return to the beginning. Sl st to join.
  • FO Color E. Weave in all ends.
• Repeat this JAYG process for each subsequent motif, joining them in a straight line (end to end) to form your runner.

Method B: Sewn Join (Whip Stitch or Sc Join)

• Make all your motifs completely (up to the end of Part 1.5). FO and weave in all ends on each motif.
• Lay out all your motifs in the desired straight line for your runner, making sure they are facing the same direction.
• Using Color E and your yarn needle, carefully whip stitch the corresponding stitches along the edges of two adjacent motifs. Work neatly to ensure a seamless seam.
• Alternatively, you can use your crochet hook to sc them together: With right sides facing, insert hook through both BLO of motif 1 and BLO of motif 2, sc across.

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Part 3: Edging/Border for the Runner (Optional but Recommended)

A border will give your finished runner a polished and complete look. Use Color E or a contrasting color.

1. Join Color E with a sl st to any corner ch-2 sp of your assembled runner.

2. Round 1 (Sc Border): Ch 1. Work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) into the corner ch-2 sp. Work 1 sc in each dc st along the side of the runner. When you reach a join between motifs, work 1 sc into the joining stitch/space. Continue around all 4 sides of the runner.

   • Sl st to the first sc to join.
   • FO Color E. Weave in all ends.

3. Optional: Decorative Border (e.g., Picot or Shell Border):

   • You can add another round of border for more decoration. For example:
   • Picot Border: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in the first st. Ch 3, sl st into the 3rd ch from hook (picot made). Work 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * to * around. Work (1 sc, picot, 1 sc) in corners. Sl st to join. FO.
   • Shell Border: Ch 1. Sk 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next st (shell made). Sk 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st. Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to join. FO.

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Part 4: Finishing Touches

1. Weave in Remaining Ends: Even if you wove in ends as you went, double-check for any loose tails and secure them neatly with your yarn needle.
2. Blocking (Highly Recommended!): Blocking is essential for table runners, especially those made from motifs, as it helps even out tension, opens up stitch patterns, and ensures your runner lays flat and has crisp, defined edges.
   • Wet Blocking: Gently submerge your entire finished runner in lukewarm water until it's thoroughly saturated. Gently squeeze out excess water (do NOT wring or twist).
   • Shape: Lay the damp runner flat on a foam blocking mat or a thick towel-covered surface. Gently stretch and pin each motif into its perfect square shape, making sure the edges are straight and the joins are flat. Pin the overall runner to your desired dimensions.
   • Dry: Allow the runner to air dry completely. This might take 24-48 hours depending on your yarn and humidity. Do not remove pins until fully dry.

Your beautiful crochet table runner with square flower motifs is now complete and ready to adorn your table!

Video Tutorial

👜 Multicolor Crochet Handbag Tutorial + Video

 Crafting a beautiful, multi-color crochet handbag is a rewarding project that allows you to express your creativity through vibrant color combinations and unique textures. This tutorial will guide you step-by-step to create a sturdy and stylish handbag with an oval base, striking horizontal stripes, and comfortable, securely attached handles.

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Crochet Handbag Tutorial: Multicolor Design

Project Overview: This pattern creates a medium-sized, structured handbag, starting with a durable oval base. The bag body is built up using dense half double crochet stitches, featuring bold horizontal stripes in multiple colors. The project is completed with two sturdy, crocheted handles sewn securely to the bag.

Skill Level: Intermediate (Requires a comfortable understanding of basic crochet stitches, working in the round, increasing, managing color changes neatly, and basic assembly techniques).

Finished Bag Dimensions (Approximate):

• Base: 12 inches (30 cm) long x 5 inches (12.5 cm) wide
• Bag Height: 10-11 inches (25-28 cm)
• Handle Length (each): Approximately 18-20 inches (45-50 cm)

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Materials You'll Need:

• Yarn:
  • Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Sturdy Acrylic Yarn: Approximately 500-600 yards (457-550 meters) total.
  • Color A (Main/Base): Approx. 200-250 yards (e.g., Cream, Black, Dark Grey).
  • Color B (Stripe 1): Approx. 100-120 yards (e.g., Mustard Yellow, Teal).
  • Color C (Stripe 2): Approx. 100-120 yards (e.g., Berry Pink, Olive Green).
  • Color D (Stripe 3/Optional): Approx. 50-80 yards (e.g., Dusty Blue, Rust Orange).
  • Why these yarns? Cotton is excellent for bags due to its durability, good stitch definition, and minimal stretch. Sturdy acrylic yarns are also a great, affordable alternative, offering a wide range of colors. Avoid very soft, fuzzy, or overly stretchy yarns if you want your bag to hold its shape well.
• Crochet Hook:
  • Size H/5.0mm (or the hook size that helps you achieve the recommended gauge, ensuring a dense and sturdy fabric suitable for a bag).
• Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for weaving in all loose yarn ends and for securely sewing the handles to the bag.
• Scissors
• Stitch Marker (Highly Recommended): To mark the beginning of each round, especially important when working in continuous spirals.
• Optional:
  • Fabric for lining (about 1/2 to 1 yard, depending on bag size).
  • Sewing machine or hand-sewing needle and matching thread (if adding a lining).
  • Magnetic snap closure, button, or zipper for the bag opening.
  • Purse feet (small metal studs for the bottom).
  • D-rings or O-rings if you prefer removable or different style handles.

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Gauge (Crucial for Consistent Bag Size!):

Achieving the correct gauge is very important for the final size and structure of your handbag.

With Color A and your H/5.0mm hook, working in half double crochet (hdc):

• 14 hdc = 4 inches (10 cm) wide
• 11 hdc rows = 4 inches (10 cm) high

Your fabric should feel firm and dense. If your swatch is larger than the specified measurements, try going down a hook size. If it's smaller, try going up a hook size.

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Abbreviations Used:

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• st(s):: stitch(es)
• inc: increase (work 2 stitches into the same stitch)
• BLO: back loop only
• FO: fasten off

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Understanding Bag Construction & Multicolor Stripes:

1. Bag Base: We'll start by crocheting a flat, oval shape. This forms the strong foundation for the bottom of your handbag.
2. Bag Body: The sides of the bag are then built upwards from this base. We'll primarily use the half double crochet stitch, which creates a solid, durable fabric.
3. Multicolor Stripes: To achieve the vibrant multicolor design, you'll change yarn colors at the end of specific rounds.
4. Handles: We'll crochet two separate, sturdy handle pieces that will then be securely sewn to the top edges of the bag.

How to make neat Color Changes for Stripes:

• When you are working the very last stitch of the round with the current color, stop when you have 2 loops left on your hook.
• Drop the current color.
• Pick up the new color, yarn over with the new color, and pull it through the remaining 2 loops on your hook to complete the stitch.
• Continue working the next round with the new color.
• After completing the color change, you can cut the old color yarn, leaving a tail of about 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) to weave in securely. Avoid carrying unused yarns up the side of the bag, as they can show through the stitches and make the edges bulky.

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Let's Start Crocheting Your Multicolor Handbag!

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Part 1: The Bag Base (Color A)

We'll begin by creating the oval base of your handbag. For this section, we'll work in continuous rounds (meaning you won't join with a slip stitch at the end of each round). Remember to use your stitch marker to indicate the first stitch of every round.

1. With Color A and your H/5.0mm hook, ch 41. (This chain length determines the primary length of your bag. You can adjust it to make your bag longer or shorter, but be mindful that it will affect the total stitch count in subsequent rounds.)

2. Round 1: Work 2 hdc in the 3rd chain from the hook. (This counts as your first increase at one end of the oval). Work 1 hdc in each of the next 38 chains. Now, work 4 hdc in the very last chain. (This creates the smooth curve for the other end of your oval). Next, working down the opposite side of your foundation chain, work 1 hdc in each of the next 38 chains. Finally, work 2 hdc in the very last chain. (This is the same chain where you worked your initial 2 hdc, completing the oval). (You should now have a total of 84 hdc).

   • Place your stitch marker in the very first hdc of this round.

3. Round 2: Work 2 hdc in the first stitch. Work 1 hdc in the next stitch. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 38 stitches. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch. Work 1 hdc in the next stitch. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch. Work 1 hdc in the next stitch. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 38 stitches. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch. Work 1 hdc in the next stitch. (Total: 92 hdc).

4. Round 3: Work 2 hdc in the first stitch. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 40 stitches. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 40 stitches. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches. (Total: 100 hdc).

   • At this point, your base should be a sturdy oval, roughly 12 inches (30 cm) long and 5 inches (12.5 cm) wide. It might curl slightly upwards, which is normal as it will form the bottom of your bag.

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Part 2: The Bag Body (Multicolor Stripes)

Now that the base is complete, we'll build the sides of the bag straight upwards. The first round in this section creates a sharp, defined edge where the bottom of the bag meets the sides.

1. Round 4 (Creating the base edge): Work 1 sc in the BLO (back loop only) of each stitch around. (Total: 100 sc).

   • Working into the back loop only creates a distinct horizontal ridge around the base, making the bag's bottom stand out and encouraging the sides to stand up straight. Remove your stitch marker from the previous round and place it in the first sc of this current round.

2. Round 5 (Start Body - Color A): Work 1 hdc in each stitch around. (Total: 100 hdc).

   • Remove your stitch marker and place it in the first hdc of this round.
   • On the very last hdc of this round, remember to change to Color B on the last pull-through for a neat color transition.

3. Rounds 6-7 (Color B): Work 1 hdc in each stitch around. (Total: 100 hdc per round).

   • On the very last hdc of Round 7, change to Color C.

4. Rounds 8-9 (Color C): Work 1 hdc in each stitch around. (Total: 100 hdc per round).

   • On the very last hdc of Round 9, change to Color D (if using).

5. Rounds 10-11 (Color D - Optional): Work 1 hdc in each stitch around. (Total: 100 hdc per round).

   • On the very last hdc of Round 11, change to Color A.

6. Rounds 12-13 (Color A): Work 1 hdc in each stitch around. (Total: 100 hdc per round).

   • On the very last hdc of Round 13, change to Color B.

7. Repeat Rounds 6-13 (continuing the stripe sequence of 2 rounds each of B, C, D (optional), A) until the bag body reaches your desired height (e.g., 10-11 inches / 25-28 cm tall from the base edge).

   • Aim to end on a Color A round (or the color you prefer for the top edge of your bag).
   • On the very last hdc of the final body round, sl st (slip stitch) to the first hdc of the round to join cleanly. This creates a neat, even top edge for your bag.
   • FO (Fasten Off), leaving a tail for weaving in.

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Part 3: The Handles (Main Color / Color A - Make 2)

We'll crochet two separate, sturdy handles that will be sewn onto the bag. Using the main color (Color A) for the handles provides a cohesive look.

1. With Color A and your H/5.0mm hook, ch 61. (This chain length will result in a handle approximately 18-20 inches (45-50 cm) long when completed. Adjust this length for shorter or longer handles as desired.)

2. Row 1: Work 1 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across. (Total: 60 sc).

   • Ch 1, turn.

3. Row 2: Work 1 sc in each sc across. (Total: 60 sc).

   • Ch 1, turn.

4. Repeat Row 2 for 2-4 more rows (for a total of 4-6 rows of single crochet), depending on how wide and sturdy you want your handles to be. A wider strap is generally more comfortable for a handbag.

5. FO (Fasten Off), leaving a very long tail (approximately 20-30 inches / 50-75 cm) on both ends of the handle for securely sewing it to the bag.

6. Repeat steps 1-5 to create the second handle.

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Part 4: Finishing & Assembly

1. Weave in All Bag Body Ends: This is a critical step for a clean, professional, and durable finish, especially with multiple color changes. Use your yarn needle to thoroughly weave in all loose yarn tails from the bag body. Ensure they are secured well on the inside of the bag to prevent them from unraveling or showing through the stitches.

2. Attach the Handles:

   • Lay your bag flat and identify the two longer sides.
   • On one long side, place stitch markers to denote where your handles will be attached. For example, measure 2 inches (5 cm) in from each side seam at the top edge of the bag. The handles will be attached between these markers.
   • Position one end of a crocheted handle onto the marked area on the inside top edge of the bag.
   • Using one of the long tails you left on the handle and your yarn needle, securely sew the handle end to the bag using strong, neat stitches (like whip stitches or mattress stitches). Go through both layers of the handle and through the dense top edge of the bag. Reinforce the attachment by sewing back and forth multiple times to ensure durability.
   • Repeat this process for the other end of the same handle, attaching it to the opposite side of the bag, making sure the handle is not twisted.
   • Repeat the entire process for the second handle on the remaining long side of the bag.

3. Optional: Add a Fabric Lining (Highly Recommended for Durability & Functionality):

   • A fabric lining will protect your crocheted stitches from stretching or catching on items, prevent small items from slipping through any tiny gaps in the crochet work, and give your bag a more polished, professional finish.
   • Measure: Measure the exact circumference of your crocheted bag at the top and the height of the crocheted bag body.
   • Cut Fabric: Cut a piece of sturdy fabric (like cotton broadcloth, quilting cotton, or linen) that is 1 inch (2.5 cm) wider than the bag's circumference and 2 inches (5 cm) taller than the bag's height.
   • Sew Lining: Fold the fabric in half (right sides together) and sew up the side seam and the bottom seam. If desired, create boxed corners on the bottom of the lining to match the bag's oval base (you can find tutorials for "boxed corners" online). Hem the top edge of the lining by folding it over twice (e.g., 1/2 inch then another 1/2 inch) and pressing or sewing it down.
   • Insert & Attach: Carefully place the finished fabric lining inside your crocheted bag, ensuring it fits snugly. Hand-stitch the top hem of the lining to the inside top edge of your crocheted bag using small, neat stitches that don't show through to the outside.

4. Optional: Add a Closure:

   • You can sew a magnetic snap closure (easily found at craft stores) to the top center of the bag (on the inside of the lining or directly to the crochet fabric).
   • Alternatively, sew a decorative button onto the front center of the bag and create a simple crochet loop (using a chain and slip stitch) on the back for a button closure.

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Tips for Success & Customization:

• Yarn Choice is Key: For a handbag that holds its shape and withstands daily use, choose a yarn that is durable and has minimal stretch. Cotton, mercerized cotton, or a sturdy acrylic are excellent choices.
• Consistent Tension: Maintaining even tension throughout your crocheting is crucial. This will ensure your stitches are uniform, your fabric is smooth, and your bag holds its shape well.
• Neat Color Changes: Take extra care when changing colors to ensure the transitions are crisp and clean, without visible bumps or gaps. Weave in ends as you go, or immediately after completing each stripe, to keep things tidy.
• Strap Reinforcement: For a handbag that might carry heavier items, you can sew a piece of sturdy webbing, a thin cord, or even a piece of firm fabric interfacing inside your crocheted strap for extra strength before sewing it to the bag.
• Sizing Up/Down:
  • Base: Adjust your starting chain for the initial length. You can also add or remove increase rounds to change the base width, always maintaining the oval increase pattern.
  • Body Height: Simply add or remove rounds in Part 2 until you reach your desired height.
  • Handle Width: Adjust the number of single crochet rows in Part 3 to make your handles wider or narrower.
• Stripe Variations:
  • Experiment with different stripe widths: change colors every 1 round for thinner stripes, or every 3-4 rounds for broader bands.
  • Use more (or fewer) colors to create your unique palette.
  • Try different color sequences for varied effects.
• Other Stitch Patterns: Once you're comfortable with this pattern, you could explore other dense stitches like single crochet (sc), moss stitch (sc, ch 1), or even a textured stitch like the seed stitch (alternating sc and dc). Always ensure the fabric remains firm for a handbag.

Enjoy creating and showcasing your beautiful, handmade, multicolor crochet handbag!

Watch Tutorial Video

 Certainly! Here's a detailed guide on “How to Make a Stunning Flower Crochet Doily Pattern 🌸”, perfect for both beginners and intermediate crocheters. This guide walks you through each step of the process, including materials, techniques, pattern instructions, and finishing tips.

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🌸 How to Make a Stunning Flower Crochet Doily Pattern – Step-by-Step Guide

Crochet doilies are delicate, decorative, and timeless. They add a handmade charm to your living space, especially when they feature beautiful floral designs. If you've ever wanted to make a stunning flower crochet doily, this tutorial is for you! Whether you're a beginner or looking to level up your skills, follow this simple and elegant pattern to create your very own blooming masterpiece.

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🧶 Materials You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather the following supplies:

Yarn or Thread:

• Cotton crochet thread (Size 10 is traditional)

• For a larger doily: use fingering or DK weight cotton yarn

• Color suggestions:

  • White or cream for classic doilies

  • Soft pastels for a vintage look

  • Bright colors for a cheerful floral effect

Crochet Hook:

• For thread: 1.5 mm – 2.0 mm

• For yarn: 2.5 mm – 4.0 mm, depending on weight

Tools:

• Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends)

• Scissors

• Blocking board and pins (optional but recommended)

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🧵 Stitches & Techniques Used

You should be familiar with these basic stitches:

• Chain (ch)

• Slip Stitch (sl st)

• Single Crochet (sc)

• Half Double Crochet (hdc)

• Double Crochet (dc)

• Treble Crochet (tr)

• Picot (optional, for decorative edges)

Don't worry if you're a beginner — these stitches are easy to learn, and there are lots of online tutorials available for each one.

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🌼 Stunning Flower Crochet Doily Pattern – Step-by-Step

🌸 Round 1: Center Ring

1. Start with a magic ring (or chain 4 and sl st to form a ring).

2. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into the ring.

3. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (12 dc total)

You’ve formed the circular center of your flower.

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🌸 Round 2: Petal Base Loops

1. Ch 4, skip 1 dc, sl st into the next dc — repeat around.

2. You should have 6 chain spaces for petal placement.

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🌸 Round 3: Crochet the Petals

In each ch-4 space, work the following:

• (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc)

Repeat this sequence in each loop to form 6 full petals.

Join with a sl st and fasten off (if changing colors for contrast).

Now you have a complete flower center.

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🌸 Round 4: Expanding the Doily

Change yarn color if desired.

1. Join new yarn in the stitch between two petals.

2. Ch 5 (counts as tr + ch 1), tr in next space between petals, ch 1 — repeat around.

3. Join with sl st.

You’ve now created a lacy round to begin the outer layers.

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🌸 Round 5: Building Lace Design

In each ch-1 space:

• (dc, ch 1, dc) — repeat around.

Join with a sl st to top of first dc.

This gives a rippled floral lace that expands from the central flower.

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🌸 Round 6: Decorative Petal Edge

In each ch-1 space from previous round:

• (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) for scalloped edges

You can stop here or keep growing the doily with more rounds like this:

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➕ Optional Rounds (For Larger Doily)

You can repeat and build on the lace rounds:

• Round 7: ch 6, tr in each dc/ch space, ch 1 between stitches

• Round 8: in each space, sc, ch 4, sc (to make open petals)

• Round 9: decorative shell or picot edging (e.g. 5 dc shell, or ch 3 picot between stitches)

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🧼 Blocking Your Doily

Blocking is important to shape the lace and enhance its beauty.

How to Block:

1. Soak the doily in lukewarm water and gently squeeze out water.

2. Lay flat on a blocking board or foam pad.

3. Stretch the piece gently to open up the lace.

4. Pin every point and curve, especially around petals.

5. Let dry completely (about 24 hours).

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💡 Tips for Success

• Use a light-colored yarn to better see your stitches while working.

• Practice the petal section separately if you're unsure.

• Don’t skip blocking—it transforms your work from “nice” to “stunning.”

• Weave in your ends with a tapestry needle neatly on the back.

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🎨 Customization Ideas

• Make a multi-color flower by changing yarn colors in each round.

• Use beads at the center or petal tips for elegance.

• Combine several small doilies to make a table runner or wall hanging.

• Use metallic threads for festive decor!

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📚 Where to Find More Patterns

• Ravelry.com – Search for “flower crochet doily” (many free patterns!)

• Pinterest – Find beautiful variations and charts.

• YouTube – Search “crochet flower doily tutorial” for video walkthroughs.

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🏁 Final Thoughts

Creating a flower crochet doily is a fun, relaxing way to explore your creativity while making something beautiful and functional. This beginner-friendly pattern gives you a foundation to create unique floral pieces — perfect for gifts, home decor, or personal joy.

Each petal, stitch, and round blooms under your fingertips 🌸 — so take your time, enjoy the process, and let your stunning doily blossom into life!

 Sure! Here’s a detailed, long-form article on “How to Make a Beautiful Crochet Runner Table Pattern 🌸” — perfect for beginners or experienced crocheters looking to add a charming handmade touch to their home decor.

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🌸 How to Make a Beautiful Crochet Runner Table Pattern

Crochet table runners are a perfect blend of art and function. These elegant, handcrafted pieces instantly elevate any table setting, whether you're dressing up your dining table for a festive occasion or adding a touch of charm to everyday meals. In this article, we’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of creating a beautiful crochet runner table pattern, complete with floral accents and intricate lace details.

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🧶 Why Crochet a Table Runner?

Crocheting a table runner allows you to:

• Customize the size and color to match your decor.

• Practice and showcase various crochet techniques.

• Create meaningful, handmade gifts for weddings, housewarmings, or holidays.

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🛠️ Materials You’ll Need

Before we begin, gather the following supplies:

Yarn

• Type: 100% cotton or cotton-blend yarn (durable and easy to block).

• Weight: Fine (sport) or DK (light worsted), depending on your desired texture.

• Color: Neutral tones (white, cream, beige) for elegance or vibrant hues for a pop of color.

Crochet Hook

• Size 2.5 mm – 4.0 mm (check your yarn label and swatch for best match).

Tools

• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

• Stitch markers (optional, for tracking pattern repeats)

• Scissors

• Blocking mat and pins (for finishing)

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🌼 Choosing the Pattern Style

There are many styles for crochet table runners. For a floral and lacy theme, you can consider:

• Filet crochet with floral motifs

• Motif-based (joined flowers or hexagons)

• Pineapple lace pattern

• Shell stitch or fan stitch for flowing elegance

We'll focus on a motif-based floral pattern combined with lace edges for a classic, yet modern look.

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📝 Crochet Techniques You’ll Need

Before starting, brush up on these essential techniques:

• Chain stitch (ch)

• Slip stitch (sl st)

• Single crochet (sc)

• Double crochet (dc)

• Treble crochet (tr)

• Joining motifs using slip stitch or whip stitch

You don’t need to be an expert — just patient and willing to practice.

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🧩 Step-by-Step: How to Crochet the Floral Motif Runner

Step 1: Crochet Individual Flower Motifs

Here’s a simple 6-petal floral motif pattern:

Round 1:
Ch 4, sl st into the first chain to form a ring.
Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc into the ring. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (12 dc)

Round 2:
Ch 3, skip next dc, sl st in next dc — repeat around to make 6 loops. (6 ch-3 spaces)

Round 3 (Petals):
In each ch-3 space: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) — repeat in all loops for 6 petals.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Step 2: Make Multiple Motifs

Make as many floral motifs as needed for the desired length and width of your runner. A common layout is:

• 3 flowers across width

• 10-12 flowers down the length

That’s about 30–36 flowers total.

Step 3: Join the Motifs

You can join motifs as-you-go or stitch them together afterward:

• Align two motifs side-by-side.

• Slip stitch through the back loops only for a near-invisible seam.

• Continue joining all motifs to form a rectangular runner.

Step 4: Add a Lacy Border

Add a classic lace trim around the runner for a polished look.

Simple Shell Border:
Round 1: Sc around the entire runner, placing 3 sc in each corner.
Round 2: Skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next — repeat around.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

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🎨 Color Ideas and Variations

• Use ombre yarn for a gradient effect.

• Try alternating flower colors for a spring garden vibe.

• Add beads in flower centers for a touch of sparkle.

• Combine different motif shapes (flowers + hexagons) for unique layouts.

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🧼 Finishing Touch: Blocking Your Runner

To get that beautiful, flat, professional look:

1. Wet the finished runner or spray it lightly with water.

2. Pin it to a blocking mat, aligning edges straight.

3. Let it dry completely — this sets the stitches and enhances the lace.

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⏳ Time Commitment

• Beginners: 1–2 weeks (a few hours a day)

• Experienced crocheters: 2–4 days

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💡 Tips for Success

• Keep your tension consistent for a uniform look.

• Swatch a few motifs before committing to full size.

• Take breaks to avoid hand fatigue.

• Store motifs in a zip bag to keep them clean while working.

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🏡 Where to Use Your Crochet Table Runner

• Dining tables

• Coffee tables

• Sideboards or consoles

• Over fabric tablecloths for a layered look

• As a wall hanging!

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📚 Bonus: Free & Paid Pattern Resources

Check out these platforms for more inspiration:

• Ravelry.com – A treasure trove of free and paid crochet runner patterns.

• Pinterest – Search “crochet table runner patterns.”

• YouTube – Many step-by-step tutorials for visual learners.

• Etsy – Purchase unique and intricate patterns from independent designers.

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✨ Final Thoughts

Crocheting a beautiful runner table pattern is more than just a crafting project — it's a way to bring warmth, style, and a touch of you into your living space. Whether you follow a pattern or make your own design, each stitch holds love and creativity.

So, grab your yarn and hook, and let your creativity bloom 🌸 — one flower at a time!

📽Video Tutorial

 Absolutely! Here's a detailed, long-form guide on how to make a fantastic crochet doily flower pattern, suitable for beginner to intermediate crocheters. This doily combines the beauty of lacework with the structure of a flower motif, resulting in a stunning, decorative piece perfect for home décor, gifts, or table centerpieces.

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🌸 How to Crochet a Fantastic Doily Flower Pattern – Step-by-Step Guide

Crochet doilies are delicate works of art that combine intricate stitch patterns with elegant design. When shaped like a flower, a doily becomes even more stunning—a blend of nature-inspired beauty and handcrafted charm. This pattern features petal-like rounds, lacy mesh, and a radiating floral shape that grows from the center outward.

Let’s walk through everything you need to know to make your own fantastic crochet flower doily.

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🧵 MATERIALS NEEDED

Yarn or Thread

• Cotton crochet thread (size 10) is traditional for doilies and provides crisp definition

• You can also use lightweight yarn (e.g. fingering or sport weight) for a larger doily with a softer look

Hook

• Use a 1.75 mm or 2 mm steel crochet hook for size 10 thread

• Adjust size accordingly for thicker yarn

Notions

• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

• Small scissors

• Blocking pins and mat (for shaping)

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📏 FINISHED SIZE

• Using crochet thread and 1.75 mm hook: approx. 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) in diameter

• Using sport weight yarn: approx. 15–18 inches (38–46 cm)

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🧶 STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

• ch – chain

• sl st – slip stitch

• sc – single crochet

• dc – double crochet

• tr – treble crochet

• sp – space

• st(s) – stitch(es)

• shell – a group of dc worked into the same st or space

• picot – 3 ch, sl st in 1st ch (for small pointy accents)

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🌼 FANTASTIC CROCHET DOILY FLOWER PATTERN

This pattern begins at the center and works outward in circular rounds, forming layered flower petals and open lace.

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🔸 Round 1 – Flower Center

• Ch 6, join with sl st to form a ring

• Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 15 dc into the ring

• Sl st to top of beginning ch-3 (16 dc total)

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🔸 Round 2 – Form Petals

• Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 5 – repeat from * around

• Join with sl st to first sc (you should have 16 ch-5 loops)

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🔸 Round 3 – Petal Shells

• Sl st into first ch-5 loop

• Ch 3, 4 dc in same loop, ch 3, sl st into same loop (petal made)

• Repeat in each ch-5 loop

• You now have 16 flower petals forming the first round

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🔸 Round 4 – Connect Petals

• Sl st into next ch-3 space at petal tip

• Ch 5, sl st into next petal tip

• Repeat around (16 ch-5 loops)

• Join with sl st

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🔸 Round 5 – Extended Petals

• Sl st into first ch-5 loop

• Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same loop (shell made)

• Shell in next loop – repeat around

• Join with sl st

You now have 16 larger shells forming the second layer of petals.

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🔸 Round 6 – Lacy Round

• Sl st into next 2 dc and into ch-2 space

• Ch 6 (counts as dc + ch 3), dc in same space

• Ch 5, dc in next shell’s ch-2 space, ch 3, dc in same space – repeat around

• Join with sl st

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🔸 Round 7 – Petal Overlay

• Sl st into next ch-3 space

• Ch 3, 5 tr in same space, ch 3, sl st in same space (large petal)

• Repeat in each ch-3 space

• Sl st to join

You now have larger flower petals laid over the lacy base.

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🔸 Round 8 – Mesh Background

• Ch 6, skip petal, dc in space between petals

• Ch 6, dc between petals – repeat around

• Join

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🔸 Round 9 – Scallop Edging

• Sl st into ch-6 loop

• Ch 1, sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc in each loop

• Sl st to finish off

This round creates a gently scalloped outer edge to complete the flower-like shape.

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🪡 FINISHING

1. Fasten off yarn and weave in all loose ends neatly.

2. Block your doily:

   • Soak in lukewarm water, squeeze out excess moisture

   • Pin each petal tip and scallop evenly to a foam board or blocking mat

   • Let it dry completely for crisp shape and definition

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🌈 DESIGN VARIATIONS

• Color Play: Alternate colors between rounds—center yellow, petals pink, lace white, etc.

• Layered Flowers: Add a small 3D flower motif in the center for added depth

• Metallic Thread: Use a gold or silver filament with white or cream for a festive accent

• Beaded Edges: Add beads to ch spaces or picots for sparkle

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🎨 USES FOR YOUR DOILY FLOWER

• Table center or coffee table décor

• Jar or vase topper

• Coasters (using thicker yarn)

• Framed wall art

• Gift wrapping embellishment

• Wedding or baby shower decorations

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💡 TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

• Keep your tension consistent for even shaping

• Use stitch markers to mark the start of each round if needed

• Practice picots and shells before starting

• Don’t worry if it curls slightly—it will flatten with blocking

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🧶 FINAL THOUGHTS

A fantastic crochet doily flower is a project that blends beauty and simplicity. With a combination of shells, petals, and mesh, even beginners can create a breathtaking lace doily that radiates from the center like a blooming flower. This project teaches you many foundational lace techniques—so you build skills as you create something stunning.

Take your time, enjoy the process, and let your creativity bloom!

🎥Video Tutorial